10 Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Photography.

Beginner Photography Tips from Someone Who’s Been There

I have been working on a lot of things for beginner photographers in the last few weeks and a few people have had a read of my blog from last week, Essential Photography Gear for Beginners: What You Really Need to Get Started. https://chriskendrickphoto.co.uk/blog/what-gear-do-you-need-as-a-beginner-photographer

To this end, I thought I would go one further and think more about beginner photography and this led me to think about the things I wish I knew when I started taking photos. 

This turned into quite a long list (with some repetition!), which I have tried to distil into ten points below. I will try and keep it short and simple, but I do have habit of trying to share as much as possible - it’s all about helping each other. I’m not a gate keeper! 

So let’s jump into 10 Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Photography…

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1. You Don’t Need an Expensive Camera to Take Great Photos

This one kind of touches on the “Does Gear Matter Question”. The answer to that, as we know, is yes. But also a resounding no. But, it does a bit and “categorically no”. 

Ultimately, what matters is that you have some gear AND you know how to use it. Some of the best time you can spend as a photographer  is time getting to know your camera (or the camera app on your phone!), what the buttons do, and more importantly, where they are. You will miss shots if you’re spending ages trying to remember what the buttons do and where they are. Its also well worth learning your menus, where to find things and what they all do.

But this doesn’t answer the question. The main point in the previous paragraph is “that you have some gear”. It doesn’t matter what that gear is, as long as it works and you know what you’re doing with it.

You can take a great photo on any camera. It doesn’t matter whether its a Hasselblad X2D or an Canon R5 MKII. Breson didn’t have either of these. Gilden doesn’t use one. What they do know how to do is to frame a shot, when to take the shot and how to edit the shot to make it exactly what they want. 

If you have camera that uses older tech, or you have a camera that is more basic, or you’re using your phone, you can take a great photo. 

Good photos mean something. Good photos say something. Good photos tell a story. You achieve a photo that does all of these things with any camera, be that the latest offering from one of the big companies, or a 20 year old DSLR. What matters is what or who you are taking photos of. 

This is one of the most important things I have learned. When I started out, I bought the best camera I could afford and paired it with a kit lens. I still have that camera now. I have added more lenses, but I still have that camera and use it most days. 

Another way to think about this. In “real life” I am a teacher and I have taught photography at A-Level. The best photography student I ever had, the one who took the best images was the student who had the cheapest camera (not just in their class, but across all 4 classes I taught) and they created some images that were genuinely first rate images. I always remind myself of this when I am looking longingly through the window of my local camera shop. 

2. Manual Mode Isn’t as Complicated as It Seems

It really isn’t. It might seem it, but it’s not. I promise. The thing you need to master is the exposure triangle. Conveniently, I have made a blog about the exposure triangle, which you can read here. https://chriskendrickphoto.co.uk/blog/a-beginner-photographers-guide-to-the-exposure-triangle

If you can master the basics of shutter speed, ISO and aperture. Get the hang of this, then you can start to think about white balance and picture profiles (if your camera supports them) and maybe go one step further and start to explore things like long exposure photography and ICM (Intentional Camera Movement). 

You should also look into aperture and shutter priority on your camera and learn to use these too.

3. Light Is the Most Important Part of Any Photo

It’s the name of what we do… The word “Photography” is taken from two Ancient Greek words “Photos” meaning light and “graphé” meaning to draw or write. Photography literally means “writing or drawing with light”. 

So yeah, light is kind of important! Without it, we can’t take images. 

But then we have low light, good light, bad light, soft light, hard light, specular light… and many more. 

A good space for us to start is Golden Hour. This is the light we have after sunrise and before sunset. The term  Golden is a bit of a misnomer, it can be about an hour, it can be 15 minutes and it’s also really dependent on the weather and atmospheric conditions where you are taking photos. If you’re covered in thick grey cloud, you aren’t going to get amazing golden light, but you will have some lovely soft light to work with.

It doesn’t have to be soft light though. Hard shadows can work really well and add drama to your photos, just look at the work of someone like Fan Ho, for example. He used harsh shadows to great effect in a lot of his work (he also shot on a dual lens reflex camera, not a mirrorless or a DSLR, because they hadn’t even been thought of at this point!) 

As you get more confident with your camera, you will find new ways to manipulate the light with long exposure and exposure stacking and this will produce you some awesome results!

Use your weather apps and maybe look at experimenting with apps like PhotoPills. They will help you to decide what the weather might be like at the location you are visiting and will tell you where the sun is going to be in the sky and this will enable you to pick the right place to make the most of the light. 

I’m going to include reflections in here as well, because they’re made of light too, right? Reflections are some of my favourite things to include in my shots; I used to live for a good reflection when I lived in the city, and the same is true now I live out in the sticks, they just tend to be a bit bigger in the countryside that in the city. But you don’t need a tarn in the Lake District with the reflection of a mountain, a puddle and tree can work just as well!

4. Composition Can Instantly Improve Your Photos

This is one of the most important things and one of the easiest ways to improve your images, quickly and cheaply. 

Composition as both a topic and a concept is HUGE. As a beginner, I didn’t know much about it, let alone the different types of composition. When I started out, I was just taking pictures of things I liked and sticking them in the middle of my frame. 

Then I learned about the rule of thirds, leading lines and the golden ratio. There’s more than this, but these are the three that you will hear the most about. You should go and find out about them and start using them - the difference you will see is huge. 

5. Editing Helps — But Subtlety Is Key

Editing is one of my favourite things to do. You need to know that it takes practice and you are constantly learning. You can never know everything about editing. 

When you first start out, one thing you are likely to do (I know I certainly did!) is to find the saturation, virbance and clarity sliders in Lightroom and drag them all or most of the way towards the right hand send. This will make your colours unnatural and it’s not a desirable look for your photos. 

Take your time, practice, look at other photorgapher’s work, watch YouTube videos to learn, but keep it subtle and let it look natural. 

When it comes to editing, less is more. Just like this section of the blog!

6. You’ll Take a Lot of Bad Photos — and That’s Fine

Time for clichés. 

We learn by making mistakes, so go out and make them. The only stupid mistakes you make are the ones that you don’t learn from (2 clichés already!).

But joking  (and clichés ) aside, embrace your mistakes, establish why it’s a mistake and then go out and try again. Rinse and repeat.  

(I’ve used stock images in this blog, but this one is mine, it was handheld and the exposure was too long for this method of taking the image, so it’s blurry and there’s camera movement!)

7. Stop Comparing Yourself to Everyone Else

“Be yourself, everyone else is already taken” Oscar Wilde. 

This was on the wall in a school I used to work in and it’s stuck with me. It works for so many things in life, but in this instance, it works really well. 

Don’t sit and compare your landscape shots to Ansell Adams’ work. Don’t compare your portraits to Annie Leibowitz and don’t compare your still like/commercial photos to Scott Choucino. These are well established professional photographers, have years of experience and have forgotten more about photography than most of us will ever know!

But aside from those I have mentioned above, don’t compare yourself to other photographers on social media. You’re not them and they are not you. Work on your own images and discover your own style!

8. Consistent Practice Beats Occasional Perfection

Use it or lose it. If you’ve ever played and instrument, you will know that you need to practise to get better. Stop practicing and it takes longer to learn the piece. If you’re a sports player and don’t train, you lose the skills you are developing and your fitness decreases and you don’t perform as well.

The same is true with photography. If I go out to shoot and haven’t done so for a couple of weeks, I really notice it and I find that it takes a while to get my eye in and I don’t always know where the camera controls are - this leads to missed shots and missed shot can’t be a good shot or a bad shot!

9. You’ll Start Noticing the World Differently

This sounds like a bit of a cop-out, but it’s true. You’ll notice leading lines, you will notice good light and you will notice that you don’t always have your camera with you when you wish you had - but we all have a camera in our pocket these days anyway, don’t we?

I have lost count of the number of times I have been driving home and have seen amazing light on the fells. The number of times I wish I had my camera with me or the the numbers of times I wished I wasn’t driving at 70mph watching the world zip by the car window is huge. 

If you look hard enough, everything can be a photo and as you practice more, you will begin to see that you can find images where you might not have thought there could be one. Even in harsh sunlight (which isn’t always the photographer’s friend), you will see that you start to see shadows that will make a great image!

10. Enjoy the Process

What is the point in doing it if you don’t enjoy it? It’s probably going to be difficult at times, but what you experience in difficulty, you will more than make up for in sense of achievement. 

Go out there and take lots of bad photos! Learn from the mistakes and use them to improve. Enjoy getting frustrated at the edits but having something beautiful at the end of it. 

I’d also recommend getting your photos printed. I print my own images but if I’m not printing them to hang on the wall or want smaller images, I use services such as Free Prints and get a stack of 6x4s delivered direct to the door for about three quid! It completes the process and brings everything full circle from scouting to shooting to editing, to having those prints in your hand - it’s nice to have a tangible reward at the end!

Photography is great fun, if at times it can be challenging and occasionally frustrating. It can be your best friend and your sanctuary, and it can also, at times, be your worst enemy and some subjects will become your nemesis, but it wouldn’t be fun if it were easy, right?

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Thanks for sticking with me through this post — I hope it’s helped you feel a little more confident on your photography journey. If it has, why not stay connected? You can follow me on Instagram and Facebook for regular tips, behind-the-scenes content, and new work. And if you’d like more beginner-friendly photography advice, early access to blog posts, and exclusive updates, make sure to sign up for my newsletter here. Let’s keep learning and creating together!

What Gear Do You Need As A Beginner Photographer?

So you’ve decided you’re going to take your photography more seriously and you’re in the market for some new camera gear! But what is the best gear for beginner photographers? What gear do you need as a beginner? What gear can you do without? In this blog I will outline the things that (in my opinion) are the essential and highlight some of the stuff you can do without, and a couple of things that you might want to completely avoid.

I’m going to come at this from the point of a landscape/travel photographer rather than a studio/still life photographer. I will explore the latter in a different blog later in the year as it can be a bit of a different ball game. 

I will try to look at different set-ups for beginner photographers on a variety of budgets. This is probably going to have a bit of a Canon bias, but I will do my best to offer suggestions from across different eco systems. I will also try to untangle some of the jargon for you!

The first thing to explore is new camera gear vs second hand gear that you can purchase from a variety of sites, such as MPB.com; this can be a great way to get more for your money. Using a site like MPB means that you’re getting the item that you see on the screen as they photograph every item and don’t just show you a generic pack shot of the camera/lens/other that you are buying. Buying from a reputable retailer also means that you’re covered by some kind of warranty (check with the individual seller). I have also made purchases from CEX and from my local camera shop; both of which have been completely hassle free. The other advantage is that buying from somewhere reputable (rather than the minefield that is Facebook Marketplace), is that you’re going to get some kind of warranty which will vary depending on the country you are in.

One of the great things about your local camera shop is that you can get some great advice and at the same time, can support local business. You also get to feel the camera and get a sense of what it feels like in your hands. The drawback is that you often find that there is a more limited choice of items on offer and this can mean that you end up buying online anyway. 

So what do you actually need?

A Camera

This one is a bit of a given! You could use your phone, but if you are reading this, I am guessing that you are someone who is looking to buy a dedicated camera that doesn’t make phone calls. I have awlways maintained that modern phone cameras are great, but they don’t offer the flexibility or a mirrorless or a DSLR.

Len(es)

You’re going to need a lens to put on your new camera. Most camera bodies won’t come with a lens, unless you are buying brand new and they have bundled a kit lens with it. There’s lots to choose from, but which one(s) should you get to begin with?

Tripod

Because we’re talking about landscape and travel photography, you’re probably going to want to buy a tripod to keep your camera still for long exposures and also to help you move it more accurately and smoothly for some of the panoramic applications that you might find yourself doing with it. 

Camera Bag. 

You’re also going to need a camera bag so that your new kit is protected when you are moving it around. Some people will tell you that you don’t need one, but my attitude is that although your new camera is ultimately the tool that you are using and you can’t ‘baby’ it, you also don’t want to break it beyond repair by throwing into a rucksack and letting it rattle around inside there when you are moving it from point A to point B and then to point C and so on. 

So, let’s unpack some of these and try and find something that suits your budget.

Cameras

This can be a bit of a minefield of technical jargon - megapixels, APSC vs Full Frame vs Micro 4/3, medium format, mirrorless vs DSLR Canon vs Sony… the list goes on. 

All of the latest cameras that are being pushed at you online, are likely to be full frame ones - Things like the Canon EOS R series, Sony A7R5 and Nikon Z6. These are all full frame mirrorless cameras.

The ‘mirrorless’ part refers to the fact that these cameras don’t have a mirror which reflects the image through prism into the viewfinder of the camera. Instead, you have an LCD screen in the electronic viewfinder (EVF) which shows you what the camera is looking at. This makes the camera lighter and also means that there are less moving parts to fail on you as the camera gets older. 

I would urge you to go for a full frame option as this is the direction that camera manufacturers are heading and the APSC stuff is going to start falling by the wayside (it does mean that lenses are cheaper though!).

Medium format cameras are often extortionately priced and are also not something I would recommend for someone who is just starting out - you’re unlikely to use it to the fullest of its capabilities. 

Mirrorless cameras are also a bit smaller and a bit lighter as they don’t have to house the mirror to reflect the image to the viewfinder. This is great if you’re doing a lot of walking around with it. 

If I were to write about all of the idiosyncrasies that each of the brands and various models have, this would turn into a super long blog (it could be a post all on it’s own), so once you think you have settled on a brand, do some research and make sure that you get something that is right for you. 

Cameras to consider:

• Canon EOS RP

• Sony A7 II

• Nikon Z6

All of these come in at under £500 on MPB.COM and could be cheaper deepening on how you feel about the cosmetic condition of what you’re buying.

If you want to go for something which is cheaper still, then something like the Canon 80D, which is an APSC camera (it has smaller sensor than a full frame camera) is a great option and has been my workhorse for a number of years!

Don’t be blinded by the megapixel count of the camera, most images these days are viewed on a screen and the cameras I have recommended above have more than enough resolution to produce images that you will love! The only execution being if you’re hoping to shoot (with a camera!) a lot of wildlife and need to crop in - if this is the case and you don’t have a lot of resolution then you are quickly going to see some image degradation.

Lenses

This is another area which can be absolute nightmare. There are thousands of different lenses available in endless focal lengths and apertures, colours and specifications. 

Things you need to know about lenses:

The focal length of the lens refers to its field of views - the smaller the number, the wider the field of view. For example, a lens with a focal length of 10mm is going to take in much more of a scene than a 600mm focal length which is going to be zoomed right in and is usually used used to take photos of things such as birds/wildlife and sports; things where we can’t always get as close to the subject of the photograph as we would like. 

Aperture: This refers to how wide the iris of the lens opens. The lower the number, the wider the aperture will open. This is usually indicated in a format such as f/2.8 or f/3.5-5.6. This is know as the f stop. The smaller this number is, the wider the aperture will open. The wider it opens, the more light it can let in, and this can influence your shutter speed and will affect the depth of field. You can read more about this in my Exposure Triangle Blog. Lenses which have a low f/number and let in lots of light, are often referred to as “fast lenses”. 

Prime/Zoom. This one is an easy one. Prime lenses have a fixed focal length. This means that a 50mm prime lens takes photos at 50mm and 50mm only. It doesn’t zoom in or out. A zoom lens, such a 70-200mm lens takes photos from 70mm and can zoom in to a 200mm focal length, meaning that your subject is brought “closer” to you. Prime lenses are often much sharper than zooms but they are also often more expensive!

It’s a nice idea to have a couple of lenses when you start out so that you have some flexibility in what you do snd how you do it. I love my 70-200mm lens for landscape photography as it allows me to pick out details in a scene to create different compositions, so this can be a good starting point. I also really rate the Canon 50mm prime len (as do millions of other photographers) and the great thing about them is that you can pick up a second hand one for around £60-70!

A 24-70mm lens is also a really nice to have in the arsenal and again, gives you some flexibility and a wider field of view than the 70-200mm lens. 

Most camera companies will offer what’s called a “kit lens”. This will be a zoom lens, and will usually have a focal length of somewhere around 18-55mm and a variable aperture (the more you zoom in, the smaller then minimum aperture size available becomes) and these are a great starting point. You’ll often find them bundled with new cameras so that you can get started. A lot of people will tell you that kit lenses are rubbish, but I have taken some of my best and most favourite shots with mine; there’s even an image taken with a kit lens available in my store!

Again, if I listed lenses from every manufacturer here, this would be a massive list, but some focal lengths worth considering are listed below. 

• 18-55mm - Gives some flexibility for wider shots and allows you to punch in to find some different compositions. 

• 24-70mm - similar reasons to the 18-55mm but what you gain in zoom, you lose at the wider end of the scale. 

• 70-200mm - probably my go to for landscapes these days, makes me think more creatively about compositions and the reach at 200mm encourages me to pick out interest in the landscape that’s in front of me. Can be a useful one for some wildlife photography, if you can get close enough.  

• 50mm prime - a great lens which is cheap, light and will make you think creatively. These are a great thing to have in the bag. 

You don’t need to buy all of these lenses at once! If I could only pick one of these to suggest to a beginner, it would be the 18-55mm kit lens; this will give you the most flexibility for the cheapest price and will allow you to figure where you want to go next as a beginner photographer.

Tripods

This one is much more straight forward. If you want sharp images, want to take images that are shot with longer exposrure times or you find yourself doing a lot of panoramic shots, you need a tripod. The great thing is that they can be as cheap or as expensive as you want them to be.

A good tripod should be, sturdy, steady and not too heavy. The lighter you go, the more money you can expect to spend.

You also want to make sure that your tripod has a decent head on it. If it’s a bit naff, you will end up with camera movement and potential breakages which can lead to your camera breaking. Consider the weight of your camera when you’re thinking about this. 

I like to use an L-Bracket on my camera rather than relying on the tripod to do this bit of work for me, as I find that it’s quicker for me to get set up and I have more confidence that my tripod will do its job and not break when I am using it. My L-bracket practically lives on my tripod and I use a ball head from K&F concept.

Some tripod options to consider:

• Amazon Basics Tripod

• K&F Concept 79” tripod

• Smallrig 72” Tripod

• 3 Legged Thing - L Bracket

Camera Bags. 

The camera bag market is crazy and most photographers will have a small collection of bags and even then won’t tell you that they are 100% happy with their preferred option. Unfortunately, bags are something which is very much a personal preference. Online shops are packed with a million and one offerings and then a million and one more. As a beginner photographer, you don’t need some crazy lightweight bag with all of the latest tech inside it. You need something comfortable that you can get in and out of easily, which keeps your gear safe and allows you to carry your camera gear in a way that works for you. I have four bags and I use them all for different things.

Some bags ideas here:

Lowepro Tahoe 150: This was the first camera bag I had and is great value for money. It fits in a ton of stuff, is comfortable and full of padding. I do wish it had a waterproof cover, but you can pick one up on Amazon for a few pounds. It’s a great bag when you’re setting out. 

Lowepro Fastpack: I’ve had this for a little over 12 months and absolutely love it. It’s great if your going to spending time out and about walking and I have written an in depth review of it here. 

Editing your images

I always recommend shooting in raw format as opposed JPEG. This means that there is more information for your editing software to use to aid you in enhancing your images in the edit. 

When you’re first starting out, it can seem a bit crazy with the amount of options that are available to you, some are paid, some are free. 

When you first start out, consider using things like Photopea or GiMP. These are free applications that will allow you to edit your images in much the same way you would in photoshop. 

When you’re ready then take a look at the Adobe website and see what works for you. As a beginner, the photography package, which includes Lightroom and Photoshop will be more than enough to start to get to grips with. There are tons of tutorials on YouTube.

You could also consider Capture 1 Pro, but this only has colour grading functions so you might want to think about whether or not you want the more in-depth options that photoshop offers.

Things you don’t need to buy as a beginner photographer.

Instead of buying these things when you first start, maybe consider investing this money in some of the stuff I have mentioned above.

Drone - learn to compose shots and edit them first, then think about taking aerial shots with a drone. I have one and love using it but don’t use it anywhere near as much as I thought I would. They’re great for video but take things slow and take this leap when you are ready.

Lens Ball - gimmicky to the point that I have four of these. One I bought myself and the others were gifted to me and have hardly been used. I have taken one photo using one of these that I actually like. Buy one and say hello to your new optically engineered paperweight. If you’re going to buy one of these and don’t have a 50mm prime, then buy the prime lens instead. You can thank me later. 

Filters - As you develop your skills and learn about photography, you will definitely want to learn about filters and how and when to use them. Not having them won’t cause you any huge issues when you first start out and will help you to get to know your camera. You can use exposure bracketing to manage scenes with high dynamic range rather than reaching for an ND filter.

Gimbals - Unless you are planning on making a ton of video content then there is no need for one of these. I have a mobile phone gimbal which I use now and again to create timelapses but haven’t used it anywhere near its full capability! 

Other things to consider buying when you buy your first camera

SD Cards (you can never have too many of these), spare batteries (especially of you’re buying a Somy camera or you think you are going to be shooting a lot of video - make sure you get the right ones for your camera), lens cloths, rocket blower and if you’re a landscape photographer, a head torch!

When you’re buying SD cards, buy the biggest you can afford, but check the read/write speeds on your camera specs. There isn’t any point spending money on a superfast card when your  camera isn’t able to write as quickly as the card can handle - you won’t notice any difference. 

Another thing I would consider is a shutter release. This is a simple bit of kit which allows you release the shutter on your camera without touching it. This can be important when you’re shooting on a tripod, and even more important if you are shooting on a tripod at a long focal length. No matter how hard you try, when you press the shutter button on your camera, you are going to introduce movement into your image. Movement often results in either blurred or soft (out of focus) shots, and that’s often not what we are aiming for!

Final Thoughts

I hope that you have found this useful! Buying a camera can be a bit of a nightmare as there is so much choice and the way cameras are marketed makes it even more difficult to make what is the right choice for you and not what is the right choice for the camera manufacturers. Don’t get sucked into spending money that you don’t need to.

Make sure that you look at the second hand websites as I said at the start of this blog. The second hand market for camera is awesome and given the current global economic situation, this is only going to continue to save you some money and the great thing is that when you’re ready to upgrade in the future, you can sell them back to where you got them from and have something to put towards your new purchase!

If you have any questions about what is in the blog, or if you buy new gear and want to learn how to use it then drop me an email with a question or to discuss a photography workshop in the Lake District where I can spend a day or half a day with you showing you how to get the most out of your new camera gear!

5 Quick (and free) Tips to Boost Your Photography

Nothing techy, nothing expensive, just 5 things that you can do today!

1: Shoot what you love and what you enjoy.

Don’t be a slave to social media and shoot what you think everyone else wants you to photograph. Photography should be something that you do because YOU enjoy it; i really believe that if you’re shooting what you enjoy, somewhere you enjoy doing it, then you will take better images because you will have more of a connection with your subject matter. It might be wildlife, it might be landscapes, it might be street, it might be commercial but it should be what you enjoy! I manage to combine my love of being outside with my photography, so I get the best of both worlds!

2: Look at the work of other photographers. 

Read photobooks, look on the internet, soak it all up! You don’t have to copy everyone else’s work but it's useful to have inspiration and to see how other people compose images.

If you can avoid all of the other distractions, then using the internet to do this is a great idea, but know what you want to find and then go find it!

Some of my favourites are Nigel Danson, James Popsys, Scott Choucino (these three have really active social media and YouTube channels and I have learned a TON from them!), Galen Rowell and of course, the master: Ansell Adams.

These aren’t the only photographers out there, so find ones that you like and learn about their photography!

3: Talk to other photographers!

This is where I have learned more than via any other medium, other than actually going out and shooting. And let’s be honest, if you’re talking with other photographers, you’re probably out shooting anyway! Talking to other photographers and shooting with them is one of the best ways to learn, to get better and to develop your skills.

4. Be Present. 

By this, I don’t just mean be there and be ready to get the shot. I mean be present in the moment, be aware of what is going on. Put your phone away, take the AirPods out, look and listen. Doing this meant that one a recent trip to a local viewpoint, I got to see things in the night sky that I haven’t seen before and it was really special. Allow of your senses to play a part in what you’re doing. Nothing beats being out early morning listening to the birds and watching the world come to life in front of you and capturing it with your camera.

5. Get out and shoot!

Make a plan and stick to it. Go out without a plan. But go out! 

Some of my best shoots have been spontaneous, some have been the planned shoots, but they all involved getting off my behind and going out and doing the thing that I love. New years day last year was a really special one - I was up early and took advantage of the empty streets (I was still living in London) and saw one of the best sunrises I saw in all of my time in London. It was a great start to the year!

Bonus Tip!

Take lots of photos - I see so many people who have gone out and taken 10 photos on the same photo walks where people have taken 300. It pays to have shots in the bank, because the more you take, the more chance you have having something different or something interesting. Taking fewer photos because you “know how to get the shot” doesn’t make you a better photographer, it means that you get shots that other people miss. 

Bonus Tip 2!

Know your camera. It should be like an extension of your body. READ THE MANUAL! Watch YouTube videos about your camera and find out everything it can do and then learn how to do it. There is nothing worse than seeing something amazing happening in front of and then having to faff about with your camera to dial in the settings meaning that you miss the shot. Even during the longest of golden hours, the good light can be there and gone in a minute (or even seconds!) and you don’t want to spend that time staring at your camera wondering why you can’t make it do what you want it to. Oh, and make sure that you’re shooting in raw so that you have the flexibility when you’re doing your post processing!

Keep Creating!

Chris

Does Photography Gear Matter ?

Welcome to my first blog! It’s a cold, sunny, Sunday morning here in Cumbria so I’ve made a brew and sat down to try and answer the question “Does photography gear matter?”. This a question that will have ten’s of thousands of answers out there on the wider internet, and I’m going to share my thoughts here.

Where to start?

There are thousands of camera options available to you, just as many lens options, there’s all of the different filter and tripod options and don’t even get me started on bags (this is a separate blog all on its own!).

I get asked a lot “what’s the best camera?” or “what’s the best lens for portrait/landscape/street?”. The best answer I have heard to these questions and the one I like the best is “the one you already have”. Even if that’s the one that you have on your phone. Phone cameras are getting better by the day, and some of them even shoot raw images, which give you more flexibility when you’re editing.

But what if you don’t already own any camera gear and want to move away from your phone, where should you start, what should you get and where should you buy it from?

In truth, if you have a budget of, for example, £1000 (about $1200US), then you should (in my opinion) look to spend about half of this on your camera and lens combination. Why? Because if it breaks or you break it, it gets full of water or some other unthinkable thing happens to it then you have enough in the bank to be able to replace it. So the best camera is the one that you have and the one that you can afford to replace. I’ll talk about your first lens later.

Buying you first camera and lens is only the beginning. Once you have made this purchase, you’ll need to think about what sort of photography you’re going to do and the conditions that you’re going to be shooting in. If it’s anything that’s likely to be in low light situations, then you’ll need a tripod if you’re going to get sharp images, free of camera movement, which you can be proud of.

Then you’re going to need to be able to move it all so a decent, comfortable camera bag will be essential. So out of our remaining £500, we’ve probably just spent another £50-75!

But what about your lens? This is an important decision. The quality of your glass is important and is probably one of the things that will have the biggest impact of the quality and feel of your images (vintage lenses create some great looks, when you’re ready to dive down that rabbit hole). Most consumer DSLR/mirroless cameras can be supplied with a “kit” lens. These are usually cheaper than premium lenses, but won’t be weatherproof, so be careful if you’re using it in the rain. Kit lenses are generally zoom lenses, which is great when you are just starting out as it means you’ve got a range of focal lengths covered so you can experiment, be flexible and have fun with your images. The Canon 18-55mm f/4.5-5.6 is a common kit lens that you can buy with their cameras. Just be sure the check that the lens is included in the price that you pay, as a general rule, DSLR/Mirrorless cameras don’t come supplied with a lens and you’ll have to buy this separately.

New or Secondhand?

This is a question that is likely to be dictated by your budget, but you also get a lot more bang for your buck if you are willing to make a second hand purchase. The secondhand camera market is huge and there are some bargains to be had if you know where to look. The best places to start this search are websites like MPB and Wex.

Both of these sellers are reputable UK brands who supply the kit with a warranty and everything is thoroughly checked before it goes on their websites, so you can be sure you’re not throwing money away and buying a dud.

3 of the lenses in my current set-up were bought secondhand and haven’t caused me a single problem and have proven to be great value for money.

You can also consider places such as Facebook marketplace and eBay, but make sure that you do your research and don’t get either ripped off or scammed!

There is also a large “grey market” for cameras. I won’t post any links here, but I am sure you will be able to do a quick Google search and make up your own mind. With regard to the grey market for cameras, you’ll get an authorised product but outside of the manufacturers authorised distribution channels. So you might buy a lens from a UK based seller, but the product wasn’t intended for the UK or European markets, meaning you don’t get any of the manufacturers warranty protection if something goes wrong.

Will people take me seriously?

Don’t worry about what other people think. Use what works for you; the most important thing is that you ‘get on’ with your setup. That being said, if you get booked to photograph a wedding and turn up with an iPhone and nothing else, you’re going to get some funny looks!

“Is this a professional camera?”, another question that gets asked repeatedly and one that doesn’t have a really well defined answer. Any camera can be a professional camera if you’re using it to make money. What portion of your income you need to be making to be considered professional is another discussion for another time! Also worth noting at this juncture, if you’re out shooting and you end up on private land (such as Canary Wharf in London or the area around Tower Bridge), you’ll probably told by a security guard that any camera that has an interchangeable lens is a professional camera so that they can make you stop and move you on (always be polite and do what they ask, it makes it easier for everyone else who has to encounter them in the future); luckily, you’ll probably have another camera in your pocket anyway.

So, does gear matter?

Yes.

And no.

And also maybe. To some extent.

If you’re reading this and you have made it this far, chances are you’ve read a few articles on this topic and heard a number of different opinions.

If you have a camera on your phone and you’re happy with it then great! If you want some more flexibility in what you do then you may want to consider your first DLSR/mirrorless purchase.

Gear matters if you let it matter. Going out and buying a Canon R5 with an L series lens is going to set you back in excess of £6500 and isn’t going to make you a better photographer, no matter what your experience level. It will create lovely files with lots of data that will be great to edit, but they won’t necessarily be “good photos”. If you’re spending this kind of money on your first camera because “it will encourage me to go out and shoot” then the chances are that in 6 months time you’re going to have a very expensive ornament sat on your shelf! Remember the old adage that photography happens in the space between the photographer’s ears.

The resolution/megapixel count on newer cameras is huge, which is great if you’re drastically cropping images and want to retain the image quality. But bear in mind, that if you’re after the resolution, then consider the Canon 5DS or 5DSR. Both of these have more megapixels (50.3MP) than the R5 and are now about 8 years old so can be found for about £5000 less than the newer cameras.

What matters most is that you’ve got a setup that works for you and that you can use easily, confidently and that allows you to be out there making photos. You can’t make images if you don’t get out to take them!